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There’s something deeply satisfying about texture in knitting. And moss stitch - with its soft bumps and gentle rhythm - delivers just that. Whether you’re a brand-new knitter or simply brushing up on the basics, this guide walks you through everything you need to know about moss stitch knitting. From what it is, to how to do it, plus how to avoid common mistakes - we’ve got you covered.
Moss stitch knitting is one of those timeless, tactile patterns that adds depth and charm to any project. We like to think of it as a happy medium between simplicity and sophistication. It’s created by alternating knit and purl stitches across rows and columns, which gives it that bumpy, richly textured feel.
What’s great about moss stitch is that it lies flat - no curling at the edges like stockinette sometimes loves to do. Plus, it’s reversible. Yes, it looks the same on both sides, which makes it ideal for scarves, baby blankets, and - well - just about anything you want looking lovely from every angle.
And here’s a little knitting trivia (if you’re into that): in the US, moss stitch is sometimes called "seed stitch". But don’t let that confuse you - they’re technically different patterns. More on that later.
To begin with moss stitch knitting, you'll need a few essentials. Any yarn will do, though we recommend starting with a medium-weight yarn - it’s easier to see your stitches, which helps while learning. Pair it with appropriately sized needles, usually noted on your yarn label. Oh, and patience - that comes in handy too.
For those just starting out, our beginner-friendly crafting sets are a perfect match. Everything you need, without the fuss.
Here’s the basic structure: moss stitch is created by alternating knit and purl stitches. The real magic happens when you switch it up on the next row.
For example:
Row 1: K1, P1, repeat to the end.
Row 2: P1, K1, repeat to the end.
And then? You just keep going like that. Switch the stitch every time. If you see a knit, purl into it. If it’s a purl, knit into it. Simple enough, right? But it creates that beautiful, textured grid that’s oh-so-satisfying.
Start with an even number of stitches. Trust us - it makes the pattern easier to follow. Cast on using your preferred method. The long-tail cast-on works nicely because it gives a neat edge.
For your first row, alternate between knit and purl stitches across. It’s a bit like a dance - one step this way, one step that. Don’t overthink it.
Here’s the twist - to get the moss stitch effect, you need to alternate the pattern each row. That means:
If you ended your last row with a knit stitch, start the next with a purl. You’re always working the opposite stitch to what’s below. It might feel like your hands have to unlearn some habits, especially if you’re coming from rib or stockinette.
Stay focused (maybe pop on a podcast or a cuppa) - and it’ll click before you know it.
Once your project is the right length (and yes, you can stop whenever you like), bind off in pattern. That means if your next stitch is a knit, you knit it. If it’s a purl, purl it. Don’t switch up your rhythm just because it’s the end.
After that, weave in your ends, give your piece a gentle block if needed - and admire your handiwork. Or gift it. Or post it in the VIP Facebook group. Up to you.
Ah yes, variations! Single moss stitch - that’s what we’ve covered so far. But there’s also double moss stitch, which adds a bit more weight and a chunkier texture.
For double moss, instead of switching every row, you knit/purl two stitches before alternating. For instance:
Row 1: K2, P2, repeat
Row 2: Same as Row 1
Row 3: P2, K2, repeat
Row 4: Same as Row 3
It creates bigger blocks and more texture. Some folks prefer it for adult garments or anything where you want a more pronounced pattern.
Moss stitch is versatile - that's its beauty. We’ve seen it used in baby hats, cardigans, borders of blankets, and even full jumpers. Because it doesn’t curl, it’s great for edges and frames. And the texture adds visual interest without overwhelming your design.
If you’re still exploring how yarn behaves (spoiler: it’s not all the same), check out our post on how yarn is different from wool. It’s a handy primer for choosing the right material.
It happens. You get distracted, and suddenly you’ve purled into a knit. Or worse - two in a row. The solution? Count your stitches often. Or use a row counter. Or a scrap of paper. Or - if you’re like us - mentally shout “KNIT! PURL! KNIT!” while you go.
Moss stitch needs balance. If your purls are looser than your knits (or vice versa), it’ll show. Keep your tension even and try to avoid pulling the yarn too tightly. Relax your hands. Breathe. Trust the process.
Technically, moss stitch shouldn’t curl - that’s one of its perks. But if you’re mixing stitch patterns (say, stockinette in the middle with moss borders), you might still get some curl. A wider moss edge or a proper blocking can usually sort this out.
In the UK, we say moss stitch. In the US, what they call seed stitch is often what we mean by moss stitch. But double moss and seed stitch can look a bit similar - so double check your pattern terminology, especially if you're using international resources. When in doubt, read through a few rows of the pattern first to see what’s actually happening.
Moss stitch knitting is one of those techniques that feels more advanced than it is. It’s beginner-friendly, but gives such a professional finish that even seasoned knitters come back to it time and time again.
Whether you’re using it for a baby bonnet from this month’s Knit in a Box, or jazzing up the edge of a shawl, moss stitch brings texture, balance and character to your projects.
Stick with it, make peace with the odd missed stitch, and enjoy the rhythm. And remember: we’re right there with you, one knit and purl at a time.
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