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Knitting can feel like a magical language when you’re just starting out – full of loops, yarn, and an ever-growing list of new terms. But at its heart, knitting relies on just two fundamental stitches: the knit and the purl. Once you get to grips with these, you’re well on your way to creating just about anything from baby booties to cosy scarves. So, what’s the real difference between knit and purl stitches? And why do they matter so much?
A knit stitch is the most basic building block of knitting. If you imagine the fabric as a field of little Vs all standing neatly in rows, that’s the result of knit stitches. It’s typically the first stitch beginners learn, probably because it's straightforward, rhythmic, and just quite satisfying really.
To knit, the working yarn sits at the back of your project. You insert your needle through the front of the loop on your left-hand needle, scoop the yarn through, and slip it off – and that’s it. Over and over. It creates a smooth surface on the side you’re looking at (the "right" side), while the back (the "wrong" side) has a more bumpy texture.
Knit stitches are used in a huge number of patterns, often on their own to create garter stitch, or combined with others to form more complex textures.
Ah, the purl stitch. It’s essentially the knit stitch's cheeky twin. Whereas knit stitches are smooth and sleek, purl stitches give a bumpy, nubbly texture. To purl, the yarn sits at the front of your work. You push the needle through from back to front, wrap the yarn around, and pull it through.
Purl stitches are what create that texture on the back of stockinette stitch (more on that in a bit). Many knitters find purling a bit more fiddly than knitting at first – but once your hands get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.
If you knit every row, you’ll get garter stitch. If you alternate between knitting one row and purling the next, you’ll get stockinette stitch – that classic knitwear look.
Knit stitches look like Vs, neatly stacked row upon row. Purl stitches, on the other hand, look like small bumps or waves. If you knit a row, flip the work, and then purl the next, you’ll see one side with neat Vs and one side with bumps. That combination is the famous stockinette stitch.
Interestingly, a purl stitch is simply a knit stitch worked from the other side – so, in essence, they’re two sides of the same coin. But from a visual standpoint, they’re polar opposites.
This is where things get exciting (well, we think so!). Knit stitches lie flat and smooth, while purl stitches push forward slightly, adding depth and texture. Use only knit stitches, and your work will be squishy and ridged (garter stitch). Use only purls, and you’ll get the same, but on the opposite side. Mix them, and you start getting into much more dynamic territory.
Want stretchy edges or patterns that pop? That’s when you combine both.
You’ll find that most knitting patterns don’t just ask for one or the other – they call for both, often in alternating rows or complex sequences. Stockinette stitch (which uses knit on one side and purl on the other) is common in everything from baby hats to socks. Ribbing – that stretchy section on cuffs and hems – is made by alternating knit and purl stitches in the same row.
So, which stitch should you use? Honestly, it depends on the look, texture, and function you’re going for.
This is the bread and butter of garment shaping. Ribbing adds elasticity, which is perfect for waistbands, collars, and anywhere you want a snug fit. A 1x1 ribbing (one knit, one purl) is sleek and subtle, while 2x2 (two knit, two purl) gives a chunkier, more defined texture.
You can get really creative with these combinations – just be mindful of your tension, or things might start looking wonky.
Seed stitch (or moss stitch) is a brilliant example of using knit and purl stitches to make a bumpy, textured fabric that lays flat and doesn’t curl at the edges. It’s created by alternating knit and purl stitches across a row, and then flipping them on the next row (so knit over purl, and purl over knit).
There are also countless other stitch patterns that rely on this basic mix. Once you’re comfortable with the two core stitches, you'll open the door to more adventurous designs.
We explore even more combinations in our post on the different type of knitting stitches. You can also shop premium knitting kits to try them out yourself.
When you're just starting out, it can be easy to lose track of which stitch you’re doing – especially mid-row. A handy trick: look at the stitch sitting just below your working needle. If it looks like a V, it was a knit. If it looks like a little bump, it was a purl. Keep an eye on that, and you’ll stay on track.
Many knitters find their purl stitches are a bit looser (or sometimes tighter) than their knits. This can lead to uneven fabric, especially in patterns like ribbing. Don’t worry – it’s very common! The more you practise, the more even your stitches will become. Blocking your finished work can also help smooth things out.
So, knit vs purl? It turns out they’re not rivals at all – they’re partners. Two essential stitches that form the backbone of everything we create with our needles. Understanding the differences (and similarities) helps you read your work, follow patterns with more confidence, and design pieces that really sing.
Whether you’re knitting tiny socks or a chunky jumper, it all starts with these two stitches. Master them, and the rest is just variation. And if you want a hand-picked kit to practise on, packed with yarn, patterns, and a few surprises, you know where to find us.
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