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So, you’re knitting along happily - everything’s going well, the yarn is smooth, your tension’s even (or close enough), and the pattern? It’s finally making sense. Then suddenly, it pops up: increase a stitch. Panic? Not quite. But confusion? Oh yes. Increasing stitches in knitting can feel like stepping into a new language if you’re not familiar. But here’s the thing - it’s not nearly as scary as it sounds.
In fact, learning how to increase a stitch in knitting is one of those skills that unlocks a whole new world. Shaping sweaters, crafting lace, creating curves and edges - it all starts here. And once you get the hang of a few techniques, you'll find yourself using them without even thinking about it. (We promise. Probably.)
Let’s take a closer look, shall we?
Put simply, increasing a stitch means adding an extra stitch where there wasn’t one before. It expands your fabric - whether subtly or dramatically - and it’s essential for creating shape in almost any pattern beyond a plain scarf.
Think of it like giving your knitting a little room to grow. A sleeve flare? You’ll need increases. A lace motif? Definitely increases. Even your favourite knit hat likely used them, sneakily worked into the crown shaping.
Increases can be subtle and invisible. Or they can make a feature of themselves, leaving decorative eyelets or bar lines. It all depends on the method you choose - and the look you’re going for.
Here’s where things get interesting. There’s no one-size-fits-all when it comes to increasing. Different methods create different visual effects, and each has its own quirks.
Some methods are nearly invisible, blending seamlessly into your fabric (great for sleeves and sides). Others leave a decorative hole or a visible ridge - perfect if you want to show off your stitchwork.
So, how do you choose? Let’s walk through the main ones you’ll come across.
This is one of the most common increases. There are a few variations - M1L (left-leaning) and M1R (right-leaning) - and they’re favourites for symmetrical shaping.
To work it, you lift the strand between stitches with your needle and knit into it. Sounds fiddly at first, but your fingers will get used to it. Oh, and remember: twist the stitch, or you’ll get an accidental hole.
It’s tidy. Discreet. And widely loved in modern patterns.
This one’s a bit like knitting a stitch twice - once through the front, once through the back. It creates a visible bar (a small horizontal bump) just under the new stitch.
Is it subtle? Not exactly. But it’s great for beginners and adds a nice rhythm to your rows. Some knitters even embrace the bar as part of the look - it gives texture and a handmade charm.
Want a decorative hole in your fabric? Then YO is your best friend. It’s literally wrapping the yarn over the needle to create an extra loop.
Common in lacework, eyelets, and open textures, the YO is simple and fast. Just bear in mind: it will leave a hole. (Which is the point… unless it’s not.)
These increases are like picking up little secrets from past rows. You lift the stitch below the one you’re working and knit into it - either from the left or the right side.
The result? A very subtle increase, practically invisible. Perfect for clean lines in garments.
It does require some dexterity, though, especially when working tight stitches. Give your fingers a pep talk.
Very similar to the KFB increase (some knitters even use the terms interchangeably), this technique is essentially knitting into the same stitch twice to make a new one.
Again, it creates a visible bump - so it’s not always the right choice if you want a smooth look. But it’s reliable, easy to remember, and adds structure where you need it.
Choosing an increase isn’t just about preference - it’s about context. The method you use can change how your project drapes, fits, and looks overall.
Ask yourself:
If the answer’s yes, yarn overs or KFB might be ideal. For something more subtle, try M1 or lifted increases.
Some increases lean slightly to the left or right. If you’re shaping both sides of a piece (like the sides of a sweater), it makes sense to match your lean.
Fuzzy yarns hide a lot. Crisp, smooth yarns highlight everything - every bump, bar, and hole. So if you’re going decorative, make it count.
And if you’re ever unsure? Swatch it. We know, it’s not exciting. But it’ll save you from frogging rows of carefully increased stitches later. (And tears. Let’s be honest.)
Increases aren’t immune to the occasional slip-up. Even seasoned knitters run into the odd hiccup. Here’s what to watch for:
When you pick up a bar or strand and forget to twist the stitch correctly, it can sit awkwardly. This usually happens in Make One increases. The fix? Make sure you’re twisting in the right direction - M1L leans left, M1R leans right.
Practice in a swatch until your hands remember which is which. It’ll save you from having to "unknit" later (a truly thankless task).
Some increases, like YO or KFB, can pull at your fabric if you’re not careful. You might find the stitch before or after is too tight - or the increase itself is looser than you'd like.
Try loosening your grip slightly around increase rows. With practice, your tension evens out.
This one’s often the result of untwisted M1 stitches or yarn overs placed where they shouldn’t be. (YO can be sneaky.)
If a hole pops up and you didn’t want one, trace it back - it might be an unintentional yarn over or a missed twist.
And if it’s too late to fix it cleanly? Take a breath, pour some tea, and remember that handmade is beautiful - even with a hiccup here or there.
For a deeper look at common errors (and how to get out of them with grace), check out our premium knitting subscription and resources.
Mastering how to increase a stitch in knitting is less about memorising one perfect technique and more about understanding your options - and how each one behaves. The trick lies in choosing the right method for your pattern, your yarn, and your desired finish.
And yes, at first it’ll feel awkward. You’ll question your stitches. You’ll second-guess the lean of your M1R. But before long, your hands will find their rhythm. You’ll start to see the fabric shaping itself around your needles - and it’s nothing short of magic.
So, embrace the bumps (literal and metaphorical), enjoy the process, and knit on.
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